Paris, France: May 22-May 27, 2009
Posted: July 20th, 2009 | Filed under: Out Of TownFive days in Paris at the end of May.
Day One
Lines were way too long at the Eiffel Tower on a Saturday of a holiday weekend (Friday had been a bank holiday throughout France):
But the morning sun was good for a picture at least from Champ de Mars:
Went to Rue Cler, where we got a “tranche” of gold medal-winning Fromage de Tete (head cheese) at Charcuterie Jeusselin:
Then walked by or through the Esplanade des Invalides, Petit Palais, Champs Elysees, Place de la Concorde and the Jardin des Tuileries, where we visited the Musee de l’Orangerie:
And then the Musee d’Orsay:
After, we went back to the Hotel Malar, the hotel in the 7th Arrondissement where we stayed, via Place du Palais Bourbon.
We had dinner at Bistrot Victoires in the 1st Arrondissement, then walked around by the Louvre, Eglise Saint-Germain l’Auxerrois, La Samaritaine (which is closed until 2010 or something) and Place du Chatelet before getting Maison Berthillon Ice Cream on the Ile Saint-Louis. Then we walked by Notre-Dame at dusk:
Day Two
An Antiquite Brocante street sale outside the cemetery:
Lunch at L’As du Fallafel in the Marais:
The Musee Carnavalet city history museum, where you can see Proust’s bedroom:
A Bateaux-Mouches river cruise:
Snack at Lenotre and dinner at Restaurant Ma Bourgogne in the Place des Vosges:
Day Three
We delayed our Trip to the Top of the Eiffel Tower until Monday, and fortunately the weather was just as nice as it was on Saturday when the lines were too long. It still took a long time. We got in line at 12:33 p.m., reached the second level (first elevator) at 1:42 p.m., then waited in line for the elevator to the top for at least 45 minutes and finally got champagne on the top level at 2:42 p.m.:
Yes, you can “do” the Louvre in under two hours, at least if you hit the highlights:
Dinner at Les Fetes Galantes in the 5th Arrondissement (recommended):
We swung by the Pantheon and Saint-Etienne-du-Mont, stumbled on a night of street art at Place Saint-Sulpice, and saw the Eiffel Tower at night from the Hotel National des Invalides:
Day Four
Picked up victuals at Rue Mouffetard:
Ate a breakfast in the Jardin des Plantes before boarding a RER train at Gare d’Austerlitz for Versailles. We didn’t realize that the employees who hand out audioguides would ever go on strike, but there they were, on strike:
The other group of workers on strike that day were the people who sold tickets, but the work action only meant that instead of being able to buy a pass for all the Versailles attractions in one place at a reduced price, you had to pay separately for each. And that is when France turns into a parody of itself.
Dinner at Chez L’Ami Jean in the 7th Arrondissement (highly, highly recommended):
A note about the 50 Euro tasting menu at Chez L’Ami Jean: It is totally, totally worth it. Remember that the service is included in France (and most of Europe), so 50 Euros (which today is $71.09) is really reasonable for a meal of this caliber. For comparison’s sake, a tasting menu at WD-50 is $140 and one at Momofuku Ko is $85 — those are just two examples of places we’ve eaten at that seemed (sort of) similar in experience (and that we’ve like a lot). Chez L’Ami Jean was $70, service included. Unbelievable value, and as fantastic a dining experience. Like I said, highly, highly recommended.
Day Five
Food shopping around the Place de la Madeleine was just window shopping except for macarons from Laduree, which were consumed just before visiting the Palais Garnier, or Paris Opera:
Then we took in the view from the roof of Galeries Lafayette:
A final croque-madame at a place in the 7th Arrondissement:
Also . . .
We saw the Arc de Triomphe and Sacre Coeur but didn’t visit either one. At least one of us used one of those fantastic free Sanisettes on the street. And not only is the Paris Metro a convenient way to get around but they also have funny cartoons of rabbits:
