But How Did The Dodos Taste?

From a Times article about the dearth of solid, affordable one-star restaurants in Manhattan:

The affordable high-quality restaurants that were once so common in Manhattan are not quite dodos, but rather like kakapos, ground parrots that are endangered on the island of their birth. Like the kakapo, they have been transported from their natural habitat to other terrain. In the restaurants’ case, that place is Brooklyn.

Trust me, it makes more sense when you read the whole article, but not total sense . . .