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On the one hand, Riesling is easy to understand: not usually blended with anything else, not oaked, made really well in a few key regions worldwide. On the other hand, you've got to figure out how to say "Trockenbeerenauslese" and learn a bit about the German wine laws to really get it.
After a lesson in history, geography, and viticulture that went just a smidge longer than usual -- there are a lot of long words to sound out, after all -- we opened six bottles from Alsace, Germany, Austria, and upstate New York representing a range of styles, and then threw in one late harvest dessert wine for good measure. It came as a surprise to hear that most of our Tipplers didn't have much love for Riesling when they walked into the tasting, but we're happy to report that Paul Grieco could've tattooed the lot of them by night's end.
Dinners are getting more elaborate now: We served Edam and "Ewephoria" Sheep's Milk Gouda, chicken-apple sausages, penne dressed with pesto, zucchini stuffed with pork seasoned with spring onion, thyme, and fennel pollen, and cantaloupe slices for dessert.
Bottle 1: Dr. Konstantin Frank Dry Riesling 2008, Finger Lakes, NY ($15.99)
Rank Amateurs Said: yellow color, citrus and green grapes in the nose, high acidity, light body, short finish
In a Word: Refreshing
Paired with Food: Good, but nothing special came of the pairings
Bottle 2: JJ Prum Bernkasteler Badstube Kabinett Riesling 2008, Mosel-Saer-Ruwer, Mittel-Mosel, Germany ($33)
Rank Amateurs Said: yellow color, honey, slate, and cheese rind in the nose, high acidity, medium body, crisp on the finish
In a Word: Balanced
Paired with Food: Really complementary with the cheese, brought out the nuttiness of the pesto
Bottle 3: Trimbach Riesling 2007, Alsace, France ($16.99)
Rank Amateurs Said: yellow color, petroleum, witchhazel, tart green apple, green grapes and wet stone in the nose, butterscotch, high acidity, medium body, long finish
In a Word: Classic
Paired with Food: Went well with everything, especially the sausages
Bottle 4: Stift Göttweig Silberbichl Riesling 2009, Kremstal, Austria ($29.99)
Rank Amateurs Said: golden yellow color, flowers, minerals, peach, apricot, nectarine, and honeysuckle in the nose, "like tzimmis," marzipan, medium acidity, medium body, long finish
In a Word: Fruit
Paired with Food: Fruit went nicely with the salty cheeses and sausages, complemented the fennel pollen in the pork dish
Bottle 5: Hexamer Monzinger Frühlingsplätzchen Riesling Spätlese 2008, Nahe, Germany ($27.99)
Rank Amateurs Said: golden yellow color, earth, band aids, and wildflower honey in the nose, "like a red wine," "salami casing," "has a sparkiness on the palate," "really surprising," medium acidity, medium body, long finish
In a Word: Unexpected
Paired with Food: Earthiness in the meats brought out more honey in the wine
Bottle 6: C.H. Berres Ürziger Würzgarten Auslese 1997, Mosel-Saer-Ruwer, Mittel-Mosel, Germany ($27.99)
Rank Amateurs Said: golden yellow color, candied lemon peel, rubber boots, apricot, honeysuckle, mineral and white pepper in the nose, "like marmalade licked off a metal spoon," "Smuckers on toast," medium acidity, medium body, long finish
In a Word: Marmalade (the good tart kind!)
Paired with Food: Good with everything, flavors evolved throughout the meal
Bottle 7: Pirramimma Late Harvest Riesling 2005, McLaren Vale, Australia ($21.99)
Rank Amateurs Said: rich golden color, apricot jam, peach pie, honey, and petroleum in the nose, "like inflating a plastic beach ball," balloons, low acidity, medium body, long finish
In a Word: Inflatable
Paired with Food: Not great with our selection
[Scott writes . . .] The helpful clerk at Astor Wines was excited about our Riesling tasting -- wine folks seem to love Riesling -- and she encouraged us to taste a few more bottles beyond the shopping list, so here are a couple more Rieslings that we got but didn't get to right away; both very good.
2008 Clemens Busch Vom Roten Schiefer Riesling (Mosel, Germany)
2009 Schloss Gobelsburg Gobelsburger Riesling (Austria)
Links
Dr. Konstantin Frank Wine Cellars
Weingut Joh. Jos. Prüm
Maison Trimbach
Weingut C.H. Berres
Pirramimma Wines
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