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The unusually hot summer of 2010 drove us to one white wine after another, and we soon found ourselves at a grape that until recently we knew only well enough to generally dislike it. We'd run into Pinot Gris that was flabby and sweet and Pinot Grigio that was disappointingly light, and hadn't invested much time in exploring either one. Then on a trip to California, we happened upon the Pinot Gris at Robert Sinskey Vineyards, and with one sip of that tangy, lemony, peachy, crispy goodness, we were converts.
We weren't able to get that bottle for our tasting, but we had no trouble collecting seven wines from the major growing regions for Pinot Gris (France, Oregon) and Pinot Grigio (Italy, California, Eastern Europe). Although Pinot Grigio -- and in particular the Santa Margherita label that we chose for just this reason -- is immensely popular in the U.S., none of the Tipplers would cop to being a fan. By night's end we had some lukewarm enthusiasm in the group, but as one gentleman summed it up, "It's no Riesling."
While researching for the tasting we happened upon an article Florence Fabricant had written alongside an Eric Asimov review of Pinot Gris and decided to follow her advice on dinner. We served Tallegio and baguette, Arctic Char with leeks, and grilled peaches for dessert. The food, at least, was a big hit.
Bottle 1: Bruno Verdi Pinot Grigio 2008, Lombardy, Italy ($15.99)
Rank Amateurs Said: light yellow color, flowers and lemon zest in the nose, high acidity, light body, crisp finish
In a Word: Crisp
Paired with Food: Unimpressed by the wine on its own, everyone enjoyed it at the table with the cheese and the fish
Bottle 2: Borgo M Pinot Grigio 2008, Friuli, Italy ($12.99)
Rank Amateurs Said: light yellow color, flowers, green apple, and citrus in the nose, high acidity, light body, rounded, clean, short finish
In a Word: Bright
Paired with Food: Again, it did much better at the table than on its own
Bottle 3: Santa Margherita Pinot Grigio 2008, Alto Adige, Italy ($19.99)
Rank Amateurs Said: light yellow color, citrus and flowers in the nose, high acidity, light body, "candy-like," short finish, "exactly what I think Pinot Grigio is like"
In a Word: Expected
Paired with Food: At the risk of sounding like a broken record, it was good at the table, but like the other two Italian wines, it found no specific complement in the food
Bottle 4: Palmina Pinot Grigio 2009, Santa Barbara County, CA ($16.99)
Rank Amateurs Said: light yellow color, wet grass, white pepper, and lemon in the nose, spice, "lollipop," "would be great with cured ham," high acidity, light body, long finish
In a Word: Fresh
Paired with Food: Spice and sweetness came out when paired with the fish
Bottle 5: Pullus Pinot Grigio 2008, Slovenia ($12.99)
Rank Amateurs Said: light yellow color, anise, fat, and lemon cream in the nose, rounded but still high acidity, "makes me think of prosciutto," medium body, long finish
In a Word: Unexpected
Paired with Food: Wishing we had some cured ham lying around, it was still nice with the fish
Bottle 6: King Estate Signature Pinot Gris 2008, Willamette Valley, OR ($16.99)
Rank Amateurs Said: straw gold color, gooseberry, citrus, flowers, pear, and peach in the nose, green tea, apple/baked apple, honeydew melon, wet stone, honeysuckle, medium acidity, medium-full body, long finish
In a Word: Nuanced
Paired with Food: Flavors evolved alongside the cheese and the fish, a perfect pairing
Bottle 7: Trimbach Pinot Gris 2005, Alsace, France ($24.99)
Rank Amateurs Said: straw gold color, cantaloupe, spice, citrus, and flowers in the nose, rounded, medium acidity, full body, long finish
In a Word: Classic
Paired with Food: Second only to the Oregon wine, a great pairing
Links
Santa Margherita
Palmina Wines
King Estate Winery
Maison Trimbach
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