Home | About | In | Out | Us | Them | Table of Contents
This was a disappointing Tipple.
Several of us, these writers included, came into the evening as fans of Cabernet Franc from the Loire and even California and New York. After tasting three well-regarded wines from the Loire, one wine from Bordeaux (set aside, just to taste the grape in a blend), and one from the North Fork of Long Island, we ended the evening with a collective "meh." Why were we less than enthusiastic? Are we just barbarians, or was there really something missing?
Maybe we can go all Milli Vanilli and blame it on the rain. Many a wine critic has written about the poor weather and onset of mildew that affected the 2007 vintage for Loire Cabernet Franc, at best calling it variable and dominated by lighter wines meant to be enjoyed young. Then again, New York had an almost perfect growing season, and that bottle seemed to fit right in with the rest: a little green, a little thin, and not as complex as one might expect considering the price point. Perhaps they just need time to develop, but alas, we have no cave in our under-500-square-foot apartment.
The one bottle we all appreciated was a natural, biodynamic wine, the Cousin Leduc Anjou Pur Breton 2006. It had the most character on its own and it paired well with the meal besides. Other than that, these picks were a wash. It seems telling that we liked the one wine that didn't really fit in with the rest. Maybe we've just grown apart from our old friend Cabernet Franc, or maybe these wines just aren't that enjoyable, I can't quite decide.
Dinner, however, was unquestionably lovely. We started with some Livarot, which had a salt-washed rind that paired really nicely with these wines. Scott made whole-wheat ravioli that he stuffed with slow-cooked pork shoulder and sauced with reduced pork stock, some butter, and Microplane-thin strands of Parmesan cheese for dinner. Yellow carrots were on the side. For dessert, he made an apple and Concord grape tart.
Bottle 1: Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon La Croix Boissée 2007, Loire Valley, France ($32.99)
Rank Amateurs Said: ruby color, red berries upfront, green leaves, thin on the palate, medium-high acidity, slight spice, light-medium body, lacks persistence, "like George W. Bush, this subtlety is lost on me," "this is $32.99!"
In a Word: Thin
Paired with Food: Better than on its own, for sure
Bottle 2: Frédéric Mabileau Les Rouillères St. Nicolas de Bourgueil 2007, Loire Valley, France ($22.99)
Rank Amateurs Said: ruby color, red berries and leaves upfront, menthol, red fruit dominates the palate, medium-high acid, low concentration, light-medium body, medium length finish
In a Word: Berries (we'd add "red" but that's two words)
Paired with Food: Better than on its own, but didn't show anything new
Bottle 3: Anjou Pur Breton Cousin-Leduc 2006, Loire Valley, France ($18.99)
Rank Amateurs Said: dark ruby color, "funky feet!," earth, meat, some smoke, red berries on the palate, pomegranate, medium acidity, medium body, medium-long finish
In a Word: Earthy
Paired with Food: Perfect with the Livarot and with the richness of the pork
Bottle 4: Schneider Le Breton Cabernet Franc 2007, Long Island, NY ($18.99)
Rank Amateurs Said: ruby color, rubber, "like putting on my brand new plastic Boba Fett costume as a kid," red berries, bell pepper, thin on the palate, medium acidity, light-medium body, "simple," "could it need age?," medium length finish
In a Word: Rubber
Paired with Food: No one went there
Bottle 5: Château Moulin de la Roquille Cuvée l'Espérance 2006, Bordeaux, France ($14.96)
Rank Amateurs Said: garnet color, pine needles, red berry, plum, blackcurrant, blueberry, medium tannins, low-medium acidity, medium-full body, "like just cut wood," medium length finish
In a Word: Basic (we'd add "Bordeaux" but that's two words)
Paired with Food: Good with the pork
