The Humpday Tipples, Volume Thirteen: Sherry

The word "Sherry" conjures up precious few associations for most Americans: tipsy old ladies, tweedy British types listening to the news on the Beeb after a long day at the office, and Steve Perry's solo debut. Thus it was with some trepidation that the Tipplers assembled to taste their way through all seven styles of this historic fortified wine, partly because they knew Jen's introductory "get to know this wine" speech would be longer than usual and partly because they expected to hate the wines. We lured them in with the promise of tapas, but in the end, the group agreed that Sherry was a underrated wine well worth a spot on one's permanent beverage rotation.

There's so much to learn if one wants to get to know Sherry, from the significance of the different local soil types to the importance of flor to the intricacies of the Solera system by which the wine is made. If you want a basic lesson on its vinification, the differences in styles, and some pairing suggestions, the Sherry Council of America and the not-so-secret The Secret Sherry Society will set you right. As for us, we'll save ourselves a few hours of typing and stick to sharing some fun facts.

• The Brits' love of Sherry has waned somewhat in recent years, but its history as a popular drink in England goes back to Tudor times. English merchants have been very involved in the Sherry trade ever since the 1492 expulsion of Spanish Jews left an opening in the market.
• Having sailed to America from the port of Santa Maria not far from Jerez, Christopher Columbus gets credit for bringing the first casks of Sherry to America.
• The grape called Pedro Ximenez is indeed named for a man, but his actual name was Peter Siemons, a German who brought the varietal to Spain.
• Sherry accounts for 3% of all Spanish wine production, and the 100% Palomino, Fino style wine called Manzanilla is the most popular with domestic consumers. Abroad, sweet Cream Sherry dominates.
• Some sources say that the typical local custard called flan was first popularized because Spanish winemakers would have many yolks leftover after fining their wines with egg whites.

Now about that tapas: Round one was salted Marcona almonds, assorted Spanish olives, sliced chorizo and prosciutto, asparagus marinated in white wine vinegar/cane syrup/soy sauce/olive oil/lemon juice/garlic, plus wedges of Manchengo, Gorgonzola, and Drunken Goat cheese. Round two included dates stuffed with Gorgonzola and wrapped in Applewood-smoked bacon, toasts brushed with garlic-infused olive oil and topped by either saut�ed shitake mushrooms, grilled grass-fed sirloin, or roasted pork roulade, and patatas bravas. Dessert was dark chocolate squares, a dried fig and almond cake from Spain, and scoops of vanilla ice cream topped with the Pedro Ximénez. Feasting ensued, and six of us put a pretty nice dent in seven bottles of Sherry, which may or may not have led to some soggy-headed tomorrows.

Bottle 1: Tio Pepe Gonzalez-Byass Fino Sherry, Spain ($14.99)

Bottle 2: Bodegas Argüeso Manzanilla San León Sherry, Spain ($12.99)

Bottle 3: Bodegas Gutiérrez Colosia Amontillado Sherry, Spain ($31.99)

Bottle 4: Alvear Asuncion Oloroso Sherry, Spain ($26.99)

Bottle 5: Lustau Palo Cortado Península Sherry, Spain ($14.99)

Bottle 6: Lustau Rare Cream "Superior" Sherry (Spain) ($26.99)

Bottle 7: Lustau Pedro Ximénez San Emilio Sherry (Spain) ($26.99)